Variations on a Theme

Lots of sewing bloggers are taking part in Tilly's great One Week One Pattern challenge and, though I'm not participating, it set me thinking again about a simple, 1920s inspired dress pattern that I have been meaning to draft for ages (story of my life).  It's a semi-fitted shape, with fullness at the hip by means of a slash, which is then bound and gathered. Comfortable, flattering and would easily lend itself to variations in order to make several versions.

I had a sketchbook for Christmas and due to my previously mentioned procrastination and my perfection complex, I had only managed to doodle on the front cover!

But today I decided to plan some variations of my design, to get a little closer to actually making them.

I have some lovely fabrics in my stash that I intend to combine to make the design more striking and quirky.

I have had this floral, shot-silk sari fabric for 20 years (!) and it was a present from an ex boyfriend's sister, who brought it back from a family visit to India.  The other fabric is a pale cream habotai silk, left over from a jacket lining, also years old.

Pale silk yoke, sweetheart shaped neckline, contrasting, bias bound neck and armholes and buttons at back.  The slash at the hip is bound in the pale silk.

The floral, slinky, synthetic print is actually beige, not pinky as it shows in the photo, and it was from Etsy.  The cream lace is from a charity shop.

This design has gathered pockets at the slashed, softly pleated hip, bound in off-white silk.  The sweetheart neckline is bound too and the lace yoke fastens at back neck with dimunitive, red buttons.

This final design and fabric combination is my favourite.  The 1960s bright orange, daisy print, cotton lawn fabric is from Etsy and I plan to combine it with white silk and spotted net fabric, both from charity shops.

The spotted net yoke has the neck line and armholes bound by the white silk and the silk is also used for a scalloped edged where it meets the bustline, which is echoed at the hip slash in the front.

I have, as ever, so many projects that are in various stages of incompletion, including two toiles of patterns from my German pattern magazines, which I hope to finish at some point, so spending time on the above plans does seem foolish...  BUT, I really enjoyed sketching and planning and it has ignited a small creative spark, which will perhaps spur me on towards actually finishing something!

Finally I want to say thank you to 3 wonderful bloggers who have recently given me blog awards:

The Makings of an Urban Rustic

Per bar one Penny

Adventures in Adventuring

All of these lovely ladies seem to like my inspiration posts, which is a bloody good thing as if they were mostly turning up here expecting sewing-related content, they'd be sorely disappointed...  I will do a post about the awards and who I am passing them on to in the near future, honest!

Neue Moden July 1939

Illustration: Rügen

Photo:  Vobach   Illustrations:  Jacobi

Illustrations: Rügen

Illustrations: Rügen

Photos: Vobach  

Photos: Vobach  & Haenchen 

Illustrations: Rügen

Illustrations: Rügen

Illustrations: Rein

Illustrations: Rein

Illustrations: Rein

Illustrations: Rein

Illustrations: Förster

Illustrations: Förster

Illustrations: Rügen

Illustrations: Rügen

Illustrations: Rein

Illustrations: Rein

Photos: Vobach   Illustrations:  Schönherr

 Illustrations:  Rügen

Illustrations: Rein

Illustrations: Rein

Illustrations: Rügen

Neue Moden July 1938



Resolutely Failing

Whoosh.  Where did January go?  I made some resolutions, mostly creative and sewing related, which I intended to blog, but never got around to it.  One of them was to make at least one thing per month, and I think you can guess what’s coming next.  I have no garment-constructing post below, accompanied by pictures of me looking smug in my new dress, ‘cos there ain’t no dress.  I DID make half a toile, and traced off 3 dresses from pattern sheets, so there was activity, but not quite enough of it.

Perhaps I can atone and in February make 2 things.  Though I’m sure you’re aware it’s a short month, a whole 2 days shorter than some, so don’t be too judgemental if I don’t quite manage it...

The incomplete toile is of the dress 90577, third from left (from 1941)

The pattern sheet shows the numbered pattern pieces and the style of lines each of the pieces are drawn with, also, usually, there's a brief bit of blurb underneath with instructions....yet the dress I chose has NONE.

As you can see, the raglan sleeves are darted and the 4 gore skirt is cut on the bias (the grain line is the arrowed line) with plenty of fullness at the hem and it hangs beautifully.  The only bit I'm concerned about is the gathering at the front and back being the only way to fit the bodice.  In the right fabric, this could be okay but I think I might have to also add waist darts to get the fit I want.  In the poly cotton of an old duvet cover that I used for the toile, the gathers don't sit right, which was no surprise.  More on this in my next post.

I also traced the white dress in the middle (from 1941):

I'm guessing this might be a case of illustration seduction ( we've all been there) as although this looks stunningly simple and elegant, the pattern pieces look shapeless and have no darts in the bodice at all, but maybe with the right amount of drape in the fabric, it might work. 

Another resolution was not to buy any more patterns, or fabric, or magazines.  Didn’t quite manage that either, but I did stay off Etsy for nearly 3 weeks.  No small feat, as I usually spent 2 hours minimum on there every, single night. Then, after being on there for about 10 minutes, I bought this yummy cotton:

Who could resist melons!  Perfect for a summery, 60s A-line mini dress. The fact that winter has finally arrived, is neither here nor there to my shopping habits or sewing inclinations.