Tuesday 12 April 2011

I'm on a roll! I made a 50s frock from Simplicity 3505, view 2, a pattern I had been given and was going to sell, but after another look, thought the simple lines would be great for a day dress.  I have far too many ‘going out’ dresses. 


I thought the red 50s border fabric I bought from Etsy over a year ago would be perfect, so made a toile (muslin) of the bodice to check fit and was pleased it fitted great, and was also pleasantly surprised at how little ease the pattern had, pattern was for 26” waist and finished waist measurement was 26 ½ (breathe in).   Only problem was that I didn’t have enough fabric needed for the skirt, so I redrafted my own pleated skirt with these instructions, using 200cm of fabric (plus seam allowance).


I debated if to line it but decided against that as it would involve cutting, marking and sewing up practically another dress, so I’ve resolved (again) to make a waist slip, with just one hem ruffle that I can wear under all my full-skirted dresses instead. 



I used a centre back invisible zip, which was not my intention but as I only realised after I had constructed the dress that a lapped or centred zip would have had to be inserted BEFORE I pleated the skirt section, then it was my only choice.  I like invisible zips, but they are a bit fiddly without a zipper foot (which I don’t have) and they are expensive.  Ideally, I would have inserted it into the side seam, but the skirt was only one piece of fabric with a centre back seam.  I pinked the seam edges, ‘cos I’m lazy and figured I could get away with it with cotton.  I usually line things to avoid finishing a seam edge, which is probably far more time consuming but that’s how much I hate it!




I love the dress, there were no problems, no seam ripping, it went together beautifully and, along with the 70s top, has helped to reignite my sewing enthusiasm.  The only negative is the square neckline, it gapes a bit and doesn’t lay right, I’m annoyed I didn’t tweak it in my toile and I will fold out a diagonal section at each corner  (in the paper pattern) to tighten the neck for when I make it again. 

(Sorry about the photo quality, some were taken with a camera phone so are fairly low resolution.)

12 comments:

  1. Hi - just found your blog via Sew Retro and must say this dress is stunning. I have been wanting to start sewing more vintage patterns instead of just vintage repro and this has just fuelled that desire.

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  2. Very nice.I like invisible zips too and think that they are much easier to do than "normal" zips and I have only an old zip foot for my machine and they are no problem.Also,the tag pull thing on invisible zips are usually much finer and less obvious than on regular zips. They always look like they would be more suitable for anoraks than dresses or skirts.I was interested to read that you line dresses as I am about to make my own lining for a dress I am making from a pattern that isn't lined.Your choice of fabric looks wonderful too.Well done !

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  3. WOW. This might be the prettiest dress I've seen on the internet! Love, love, love it!

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  4. Oh, gush. I love your dress. I also love your styling.

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  5. Thanks all!

    Urban Rustic - I know some vintage purists don't like invisible zips but I agree they look less conspicuous and the only thing that puts me off is the cost (how cheap am I...?) I do prefer to line dresses, it can give a smoother line, plus it stops them sticking to my tights!

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  6. This fabric is to die for! The dress is lovely and I really love all of your fun color combinations. I frequently have that issue with squared necklines. I usually have to narrow the shoulder width and take them up a bit to get them to fit properly. Truly beautiful dress!

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  7. Holy cow! I love this dress. The fabric and execution is absolute perfection. I can't wait to see more!

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  8. Oh my! This is GORGEOUS!!! Such an amazing fabric, beautiful style. Love the tights too. Wow!

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  9. This dress is gorgeous and I love your styling as well. If you don't mind me asking, what brands are your shoes? It looks like a shoe brand I would love.

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